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Cheebo -- Don't Believe the Hype

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Restaurants & Bars 5

Cheebo -- Don't Believe the Hype

jcwla | Jan 19, 2004 12:00 AM

Christmas came early to Cheebo when Virbila gave this place two stars -- it's not a two-star restaurant.
The decor is youthful eclectic, a soundtrack of rave music pulsates throughout the joint, the busboys have a REALLY hard time with English (I asked them to reheat something and it came back in a to-go box, besides which one of them spilled a drink on me), the place is understaffed, and generally speaking it's not intended for anybody over about 30.

You have to get a whole pizza, they don't do it by the slice or a half-pie. So we ordered a sausage and fennel pizza for the table. The shape is kinda cute, but it's small (although reasonable for under $10), and ours came out too cold. When we got it back, the topping of sausage and fennel was good; the crust we agreed we could do without. This is not a pizzeria that is going to contend for best in town.

The other two in my party started with the spicy mushroom soup. Very little mushroom flavor. Lots of spices thrown together to try to mask the lack of flavor -- unsuccessfully. Neither of them made it more than halfway through the small bowl.

One chose the slow-roasted pork with braised cabbage after the waitress recommended it. Braised cabbage was okay. Didn't taste the pork but was told it lacked flavor.

The other and I both had the mesquite-grilled halibut, she with white beans -- which were fine -- and I with a good and generous side of steamed spinach. The fish was nice and light but had been drastically oversalted -- again, the theme is salt and spices to compensate for flavorlessness.

One iced tea and two diet sodas later, the bill came to $86.05 before tip. Valet was $5. Admittedly, we didn't have the "Cheebo Chop" I've heard good things about and nothing we ordered was exactly traditional Italian fare, but they offer a wide menu (and are now serving breakfast). We wouldn't go back.

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