Restaurants & Bars

Bread, Cheese, Sausage, Oysters, and Wine at Hog Island (Marshall)

Melanie Wong | Apr 26, 200412:37 AM     9

Last Sunday, a cheery male voice on the other end of the phone roused me from my slumber with “Good morning, sunshine, what would you like to do today? It’s drizzling in Albany, and I bet it’s raining in San Francisco too.” Apparently my companions had conferred the night before in my absence and decided to cancel our planned outing to Hog Island on Tomales Bay in case of showers. But with some fast talking on my part, I soon convinced them that we would enjoy the drive and still find plenty to eat along the way even in inclement weather.

Just minutes later one carload pushed off from the East Bay, packed with wine, Acme bread, and Fatted Calf sausages. Our car loaded quickly and departed from San Francisco with its precious cargo of wine glasses, cookies, homemade mushroom pate and crostini, and more wine. We rendezvous’d in Point Reyes Station to put our heads together on what to do next and pick up whatever else we needed for the day. It was a nice stopping point to stretch our legs, as well as to take a look around to buy some cheeses at Cowgirl and the local market for charcoal, drinking water, and some asparagus, pears and cherry tomatoes, then we continued north.

In Marshall, the parking lot at Tony’s was packed, likewise at the general store. Guess we weren’t the only ones not willing to change our plans because of the rain. We had considered stopping at one or the other for our “indoor” back-up plan, but decided to push on.

Arriving at Hog Island a little after noon, the picnic area was about half full even in wet weather. We staked out a rain-soaked picnic table with a sturdy drop cloth and covered the wet benches with thermal pads. The giant umbrella that Eileen had in the trunk came in handy. When the sprinkles returned intermittently, we propped it in the table’s umbrella well to keep our bread dry and protect the wine in our glasses from dilution, and protected our own heads with rain hats and jacket hoods. Our five and six-year-olds took shelter under their red ladybug umbrella (which other picnickers eyed enviously) and a tarp and entertained themselves with card games.

While Spencer readied the grill, we laid out the first course of the cheeses with slices of pear and pan epine and the mushroom pate on crostini. At Cowgirl, it was a challenge to find cheeses with much maturity on them, until the counter clerk offered up tastes of what she described as “very ripe” St. Pat and SF Drake, both by Cowgirl. We felt the two were on point, enjoying the slight vegetal bitterness of the stinging nettles embedded in the rind of the St. Pat and the smooth and mellow flavors of the mature buttery Drake. The Montgomery cheddar was in the creamy and not yet crystalline stage with a bright fruity finish. Our favorite was the Minuet by Andante, a triple crème soft-ripened goat cheese enriched with crème fraiche, with a touch of goatiness and loads of character.

Max started shucking the x-small Sweetwaters (no other types available) for us, another of his hidden talents, apparently learned from an old fisherman on Prince Edward Island. Very salty and briny with crisp texture and lovely sweetness, we found we liked them best with just a squeeze of lime to balance the extra salty taste, and sometimes with a touch of Tabasco sauce to spice things up a little. These were the best oysters I’ve had all season. We washed down our oysters and cheeses with Bregon’s Muscadet sur lie, a match made in heaven for the minerally bivalves, and Pierre Peters Blanc de Blanc Le Mesnil sur Ogier Champagne.

Without a set of barbecue tongs, the grillers improvised handily, using raw asparagus spears in chopstick fashion and also an extra pocket comb and a Swiss army knife to move the sausages around. Ted’s grilled asparagus were smoky and wonderful seasoned with only a squeeze of the lemon wedges on Hog Island’s condiment board.

The uncooked sausages from Fatted Calf were wrapped in unmarked butcher paper, and Spencer made a contest of holding up the specimens and asking us to identify them. I think I won – correctly naming the crepinettes and the kielbasa. We also had the rosso, a mild pork link flavored with red wine. This was my first taste of the charcuterie from the Fatted Calf and I was very impressed. They seemed lean to me, yet the flavor was fresher and more intense and I didn’t miss the extra fatty richness. The crepinettes were my favorite with well-turned seasonings and pistachio nuts. With the meats we had the Domaine de Fontsainte Gris de Gris from Corbieres, my first sample of the Sud’s 2003 vintage, and it was amazingly dark in color for a pink wine, very ripe and low in acidity. We also enjoyed Truchard Carneros Syrah and Janasse Chateauneuf-du-Pape.

Our next round was small Sweetwaters, too big for eating raw on the half shell. Alex took over shucking duties while sharing his tale of an idyllic time in years past living on Tomales Bay. In those simpler days, he had little more to do than grab a bag of oysters from Hog Island every few days, keeping them alive by lowering the bag over his house’s deck into the sea on bungee cords, and would shuck a few whenever the mood struck him. Instead of serving this round raw, he put them on the grill until they popped open and then added a dab of hot salsa fresca. These were glorious too.

We ended our repast with Sara’s homemade white chocolate chip cookies. Having depleted our food rations and now more wet and cold than comfortable for our three hours on the bay, we headed home. Even on a gray and damp day, I still love the Hog Island experience. It's one of the greatest things available to us in the Bay Area. An important notice, starting May 15, advance reservations will be required for the picnic area.

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