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Daniel Duane | Aug 26, 200608:09 PM    

Boy, that place is a trip. I walk in at 11:30 a.m. this morning, on a lark, and there's almost nothing in the cold case. The few things I do see are almost invisible behind the nearly-opaque glass of that antique cooler, and none of it has any identifying sign or price tag. I'm about to leave when I ask the guy, off hand, if he has any fresh fish. Oh, sure, he tells me, very relaxed and decent about it, and he pulls out an absolutely gorgeous slab of Ahi. Offers it up for me to look close and even take a sniff, which I like to do when buying fish. This stuff is sashimi fresh, just like the guy tells me, in his low key, this-isn't-some-big-foodie-deal kind of way, like, Hey, I'm just a guy with some fish in a store front. And when I ask how much he's charging? Eight bucks a pound. How do I want it cut, he asks? So I bought a half pound and took it home and seared it and ate with a killer Ella Bella tomato and Dirty Girl basil from this morning's Ferry Plaza and it was great fish. No two ways, no nothing. I'm rooting for this guy.

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