We will be staying in Bergamo for two days in early June before our trip to Piedmont and plan to take the train from there to spend the day in Milan. Is Trattoria Milanese a good choice for lunch or should we try for something more upscale (expensive) like Ristorante Cracco? What is currently a very good non-touristy place to eat in Milan? Also, if anyone has a suggestion for Bergamo, it would be much appreciated. After that part of the trip, we can't wait to get to Piedmont, especially based on the wonderful suggestions for restaurants given here.