Don't miss Gallura, a Sardinian restaurant in Parioli, Rome's Beverly Hills. The salad of mullet roe, arugula and parmesan was the best dish I ate in five days of a lot of eating, and Myrto, a digestif made from some mysterious and wondrous herb that grows only in Sardinia, was by far the best thing I had to drink. On a warm night the tree-shaded garden could not possibly be more magical. Apparently a hangout of Roberto Benigni. Ten stars out of five!