Restaurants & Bars

Austin’s The Roaring Fork: What Am I Missing?

MPH | Dec 20, 200606:36 PM     6

I first tried the Roaring Fork when I was visiting a colleague who was staying at the Stephen F. Austin Hotel. We had drinks and shared a “Big-Ass Burger.” I remember thinking that the place was pretty good. Since then, I’ve been back to sample different starters, sides, and main courses. Overall, I’ve found the presentation and the descriptions to be more compelling than the actual food. Am I somehow missing all the good stuff? What, specifically, are the best dishes there?

Starters I’ve had [all recommended as “the best” by enthusiastic servers]:

Southwest crab cakes with green-chile butter (not spicy at all) and a “spicy remoulade” sauce (ditto). The Southwestern part must refer to the inclusion of corn kernels, the so-called spicy elements, and the non-traditional inclusion of Saltines to bind the crab cakes together. These weren’t bad, but they weren’t very good, either.

Guacamole that was served with thick, slightly stale, yellow and red tortilla chips that looked great but lacked flavor. The guacamole was made up of cilantro, onions, and tomatoes, with Mexican white cheese sprinkled on top and lime wedges on the side. Their version was okay, if you love guacamole that has cilantro and onion as the dominant flavor, but the avocadoes themselves weren’t good. Thus, the guacamole itself wasn’t good.

Main courses:

Duck breast and duck confit. I thought the duck breast was good; the skin wasn’t crisp enough on the tender confit. Neither was superb. The duck was accompanied by sweet hollandaise and demiglace sauces.

Big-Ass Burger. Though not the best in town, this is a decent burger option for those who prefer their burgers with a thick, twelve-ounce patty that’s encased in cheese or who want to enjoy all that beef in an upscale, downtown restaurant. The toppings include some nice touches, like bacon and remoulade sauce, though the whole thing's a bit unwieldy, due to both the size of the patty and the inclusion of a half-inch-thick onion slice on one side of the bun. Since the onion is hard to bite through, and the lettuce arrives limp from all the grease, I ask for the cold toppings on the side. Though I've had this burger several times, I can understand why some might say that it's bigger than it is good. The fries are not bad—crisp outside, mealy inside—if you think of them as texturally like steak fries, despite their shoestring shape.

Sides [paid for a la carte, at $5.50 a pop]

Green-chile mac and cheese. At first, the bread-crumb topping and bland Monterrey-jack cheese called to mind bad pot-luck-supper tuna casseroles. RF’s mac and cheese was made with heavy cream, bell peppers, onions, still more corn kernels, and green chiles (which tasted canned, not fresh). Whatever kind of chiles were used, the mac and cheese was only faintly spicy and lacked salt and garlic. In other words, it was bland. When dishes are billed as spicy, I like them to be spicy. In “upscale” takes on mac and cheese, I also like a more-straightforward cheese (rather than milky) texture, a more robust-flavored cheese, and/or a béchamel sauce. To me, RF’s version was okay, but not great. I liked the leftovers better the next day when the flavors had time to meld.

Southern-style green beans with bacon. These were Southern-style in the sense of limp and falling apart, though with more onion than bacon in them. There was a faint smokiness, but otherwise I couldn’t taste the bacon.

Desserts [all $6.95 each]:

These and the appetizers have been the worst parts of my meals at the Roaring Fork. The chocolate lava brownie tasted like it came from a mix—probably that Ghirardelli one that many restaurants use. It was gooey and too sweet, and it came with mass-produced vanilla ice cream. We were told that the pastry chef made the one-dimensional (sweet, surprisingly) cascabel-chile-caramel sauce that was drizzled over it. Did that indicate that he or she hadn't made any other part of the dessert? The peanut brittle that came on the side was a nice surprise.

I’ve also tried the “seasonal fruit pie,” which that particular night was a cherry pie that actually looked more like a Danish. The buttery puff-pastry “base,” or round, seemed like it was made from frozen dough; the cherry filling tasted canned. This dessert was not terrible, but it was not up to what we expected from the "new pastry chef" our server told us about. The coffee has been consistently weak.

The duck breast and the skillet corn “cakes” that come with every dinner have been the two most memorable items—according to those in our party who like their cornbread sweet. (I like savory cornbread that tastes of cornmeal, buttermilk, and bacon grease.) But, even these two dishes were hardly amazing. Management is always very attentive to what’s happening in the dining room, and the white-table-clothed tables with booth seating are both comfortable and stylish. However, things like the slapped-together quality of the desserts and the timid spicing of the mac and cheese and the sauces make me feel like I’m eating at an upscale chain restaurant. Based on my visits, I’d say that the Roaring Fork is “better than Moonshine,” which to me is faint praise, but not a destination restaurant for those who want delicious chow.

Is this all I can expect? If the RF is just not for me, I’ll simply cross it off my list. Or, have I ordered badly, so that my experiences are not representative? Rene has mentioned the occasional appearance of good (and free) jerky at the bar. RF’s green-chile stew is often touted as a signature dish.

Any thoughts?

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