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Atlanta, Dunwoody. Superb Falafel & Schwarma

Steve Drucker | Jul 20, 200304:20 AM

Dunwoody continues its chow ascent.

Katz's Deli opened a few weeks ago in the old Harry's location in Dunwoody Village. Its a Jewish Deli, a middle eastern grocery, and most important--off to one side is a superior, and easily the equal of any US city, falafel / Schwarma stand.

First the falafel: small balls, cooked to order, much parsely and the right spicing and not from a mix like so many other places. 6-8 of them stuffed into a whole pita with your choice of accompaniments: homemade harissa (hot sauce), hummes, chopped tomatoes & onions, pitted imported olives, pickled red cabbage, pickled green cabbage, cornichons, great homemade and thick tahini etc. This is a huge sandwich, and as good as about any place in NYC or LA, and a steal at $3.50.

Next the schwarma.
On a Gyro cooking rig, SLICES of lamb and beef, scented with cumin, are layered horizontally, as the the spit rotates vertically. Order a sandwich ($5.50) or a plate ($7.95) and its cut to order. Without exageration, this is superb eating.

Its no wonder the food is so good. The stand is run by a young woman, Hadass, who grew up in, and ran, her family's restaurant in the beachfront resort of Eilat. She makes everything herself, and the food sparkles as much as she does herself while serving you.

Up until now, Atlanta has never had this kind of food that could hold a candle to the best of its like in NYC or LA. Well for now it does.

If you like this cuisine, run, don't walk up to Dunwoody. Places like this in Atlanta historically have a finite and short half-life.

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