Restaurants & Bars

The Three Best Things I Ate at Manresa [Los Gatos]

pane | Jun 25, 201206:12 PM     6

We went for the chef's tasting menu at Manresa on Saturday, and it was a lovely experience. It's hard to pick favorites, but I will anyhow.

(1) The Butter
The best butter I have ever eaten in my life. A shocking sunflower orange-yellow color, sliced into wedges and placed in the center of the table on a glass plate. And then we asked for seconds. And thirds. With more wine under my belt, I would have asked for a fourth and stashed it in my purse. The flavor was just magnificent--full yet clean, with an intensely buttery flavor. In comparison, the usual sticks will seem as appealing as Crisco. I thought they said the milk was from Normandy, but I gathered later that I misheard--it's cows from Normandy, living in California, their unpasteurized cream makes Manresa butter.

(2) French Bread
Three bread choices on Saturday: olive roll, wheat slice, white slice (the server called it "french bread"; I think it was levain). All were good, but the white slice was on par with the best breads I've had in the Bay, or ever. The chew of the crumb was perfect, lively and elastic, while the crust had the perfect crunch, just yielding enough. Super flavorful crumb--"dynamic" is the word I think of when I eat bread this good; it's as if a thousand cogs are turning in the correct directions to make the crust, crumb and levain harmonize.

(3) "Into the Tidepool"
My two favorite dishes were early in the menu—the first salad course along with “Into the Tidepool,” which reminded me of taking a mouthful of water while learning to swim in the ocean. Bits of abalone and mushroom, brine, a little seaweed, and delicate yet rich broth I could eat forever.

Overall, the best courses focused on vegetables, with a light touch that favors summer produce. The repeated tastes were brine, pistachio and liquorice, which seems heavy when I think about it now, but wasn't at all.

Disappointments: the dessert courses didn't live up to the expectations set by visits to Coi and Crenn, which at their best meld wild inventiveness with luxurious flavor. The two dessert plates played it too safe--one was a raspberry theme, and the other I can't even remember. The “classic cocktail” menu was also too safe (e.g. Aviation, Corpse Reviver) but the house cocktail section was fabulous. I liked the “Shizuka”: Hendricks, Tonic, Green Chartreuse with Love Apple Farm Cucumber, Apple and Shiso.

Service was effortless and elegant, more formal than Coi, and better than Crenn (which has sometimes felt inexperienced to me). Each server held a hand behind his or her back while walking the room; the coordinated delivery of each course probably looks like synchronized swimming if viewed from above.

I noticed the dishware--I've seen a trend toward "upscale organic" both in terms of color and shape--lots of warm stone and earth tones, uneven shapes. The dishes at Manresa were whimsical and lovely, and a bit more formal; lots more glass, gold and crystal. Rich and eccentric grandma feel. One course was delivered on a clear cerulean plate with gold filigree.

We didn’t receive a copy of the menu after the meal was complete, which I guess makes sense considering that each table receives a different set of dishes, but makes it a little hard to pick out what we ate (or even how many courses!).

Pictures below of "into the tidepool," first salad course and the cocktail.

Want to stay up to date with this post? Sign Up Now ›

More from Chowhound

Bone Broth Primer: What Exactly Is It & How Do You Make It?

Bone Broth Primer: What Exactly Is It & How Do You Make It?

by Colleen Rush | Bone broth has been having a moment...well, for a while now; we first wrote about it in 2015 when...

How to Get Your Holiday Potluck Food to the Party in One Piece

How to Get Your Holiday Potluck Food to the Party in One Piece

by Caitlin M. O'Shaughnessy and Jen Wheeler | We rounded up some of the best products for packing food and bringing it to a potluck or party—because...

Become a Christmas Cookie Professional with These Easy Tips

Become a Christmas Cookie Professional with These Easy Tips

by Danielle Valente | Santa baby, if you hurry down the chimney, chances are you’re going to be here a while munching on...

How to Ship Christmas Cookies and Other Treats

How to Ship Christmas Cookies and Other Treats

by Roxanne Webber | Merry holiday wishes alone will not protect baked goods in their travels through the mail. They can...

Get fresh food news delivered to your inbox

Sign up for our newsletter to receive the latest tips, tricks, recipes and more, sent twice a week.