Tuesday night (19 Feb 2002) I dined at Alto Palato, an Italian restaurant on La Cienaga a bit north of Melrose. Quite good.
Much seafood on the menu, fragile and deftly constructed pizzas, a dozen tempting pastas and fish and flesh entrées.
I ate a rapini and white truffle cheese pizza, which was thinner than a matzo, simply and shrewdly made. The rigatoni with caramelized onion and chanterelles was another success of balance and good ingredients.
The wine list focuses on California and Italy, with representatives of many of the better Italian wine types. Also some Bordeaux, some Champagnes, a half dozen Spanish reds and a single Austrian Gruner Veltiner.
The main dining room is lofty, decorated with reproductions of well-known twentieth-century paintings and some originals. Suspended from the tall ceiling are fanciful hybrids of kites and kimono.
The service was extremely professional and attentive until the end of the meal, when our otherwise impeccable waiter disappeared.
755 North La Cienega Boulevard, W. Hollywood, CA 90069
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