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3 days in Lisboa

MOREKASHA | Jun 3, 201804:51 PM

Just got back from 3 days, 6 meals in Lisbon. Sadly there's a scarcity of info on Lison on CH. Hope this helps. FIrst meal was lunch @ Ultimo Porto (the last port). A fish restaurant in the port about a 10 minute drive from downtown. It's best to taxi/uber it there as it's a hike and a bit hard to find. We had a great linguica grilled sausage as an appetizer. Unlike stateside it was not set on fire at the table and had a depth that of flavor that is so missing in any version I've had. Next was grilled swordfish and grilled dorado. Both were impeccable . Amazingly fresh (as every piece of fish we had this trip was). Sides were grelos (greens) and the ubiquitous boiled potatoes. It's lunch only w/views of the river. There are a bunch of dishes not on the menu so you'll have to ask to our chagrin. Some sort of grilled fish heads and grilled fish roe.Reservations via Facebook.

Dinner was at Peixaria da Esquina. Starter was an amazing ceviche. Then we had a grilled fish loving prepared on a puree of chick peas and a marisco rice. Not a paella and very rich. Unlike the one i've had @ Mendes close place in NYC this was a bit soupier, not dry but man, I'll dream about that dish for years.A lovely wine as well for 23 euros. Reservations via their website or via google maps, then takes you to reservations, as it does for most of the places we went, i think via thefork.pt

Next lunch was at Bota Sal, again a bit out of tourist central but easily walkable. I had the best calamari I've ever had, light, tasty, and no reak of year old San Gennaro frying oil. I was hoping to have a different squid dish but they were out. The mrs had clams in a classic preparation of garlic (lots) coriander (Bulhão Pato style). They also have a typical inexpensive lunch menu of about 13 euros.

Friday dinner was at BA wine Bar. This was recommended to us by a bar tender from Terroir and he was right. Reservations a must, it's a tiny place in barrio Chiado. Not a full menu, they do serve plates of cheeses, cured meats plus tins of seafood & olives. The sausages were oh so yummy and my wife loved the cheeses. Sadly, lactose hates me. You discuss your taste/likes with the owner and either he or the som will bring you some wines to taste, then you pick which you like. If you are a wine lover, this is the place. To cap it off we had a flight of port, now I'm hooked on port.

Last day.
Lunch was at Frade dos Mares a smallish seafood restaurant (12 tables?). We split an order of Carbinerios, giant red prawns in a broth made w/oil, a small amount of red chilli for something like 12 euros which is a steal by any measure. More importantly they were amazing. For mains, Polvo (octopus) a lagareiro, roasted with a mix of green olive oil, garlic onions and cilantro. Tender, yet the pulpo had a meaty taste, unlike any I've had. I had a grilled bream that was...well amazing. THis place is known for its wines and the help is very warm and knowledgeable.

Dinner was Lumni restaurant. The most upscale place we ate. Good not killer though the starter of 3 fishes was special. However a nice selection of wines and good help. Again, Port was my desert. They were very nice indeed, giving me another glass of 10 year old Port to compare to my order. On the way out tht waiter gave me a list of his current fave wines.

Pointers: Belem, if you want to wait hours to see an old monastery go ahead. Same goes for the Pastels de nata here. We had excellent ones at places in town w/out a line. The best deserts/pastries we found were at Alcoa. Amazing place w/hardly a line, though no sit down tables. We went 3 times. Some of their pastries were made with almond paste that are in galaxy far far away from marzipan. All the places mentioned have meat but really, why? I'm a confirmed carnivore but the fish is special. Reservations are a must, usually 1 day in advance is ok

Peixaria da Esquina,
Frade dos Mares,
Último Porto
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