Melanie Wong stopped by the new Diavola Pizzeria and declares it “pretty awesome for only being open for four days.” Chef-owner Dino Bugica aims “to use local ingredients in a way that’s true to Italian roots”; his wood-burning pizza oven uses walnut and almond wood.
And as for Melanie’s margherita pizza, ordered scotto, or scorched, “the crust was nicely singed on the bottom lending a crispy initial bite that segues to a delicately chewy mouthful. While rather blank in flavor, the crust had a fresh, unadulterated taste. … The crust’s soft chewiness and tender crumb made this pizza unique.”
The sauce is just crushed Italian tomatoes, nice and simple, Melanie says; the chef plans to make his own sauce from local tomatoes once the season gets under way. And though Melanie “would have liked a little more browning on the cheese, it was the right proportion for me and not overloaded.”
It’s not the perfect pie yet, though. “Cut into eight wildly uneven slices, this pizza wouldn’t win any beauty contests. The colorful basil and zucchini flowers, added after firing, weren’t distributed evenly, and one slice had none of either topping on it. The thickness of the crust varied dramatically between the two halves of the pie.”
Salumi is very good. Melanie prefers “it to early examples of Boccalone or the imported salumi from Italy that was served at Tigelleria in Campbell.” No salumi at lunch, though.
For breakfast or lunch, there’s also panini—“A man at a nearby table was having foodgasms over his brisket sandwich, one of six or so panini on the menu.”
Service is friendly and knowledgeable. It’s worth trying to get a seat near the open kitchen, to watch the chef at work.
Diavola Pizzeria [Sonoma County]
21021 Geyserville Avenue, Geyserville