BarFry, the tempura-meets-New-American joint from Josh DeChellis (Sumile, Jovia), opened in summer to mixed reviews from hounds, who mostly liked the battered, fried stuff but hungered for a more varied menu. Well, it never hurts to ask; more recent posts describe an appealing, much-expanded lineup.

“Dinner has definitely improved at BarFry,” writes NewYork10011, who reports a wide selection of attractive nonfried options. One of the best is a sashimi plate of Montauk fluke flavored with spicy white soy and chives. clembeauchamp appreciates the profusion of little saladlike dishes to cut the grease—like cherry tomatoes with basil pickle and Sriracha, fresh snow and snap peas seasoned with wasabi and sea salt, and the refreshing BarFry salad: lettuces, shaved vegetables, and Asian pear. Other choices include glazed octopus (with pineapple, nori, and shiso), tuna sashimi (with wasabi, miso, and grated green apple), and—from the menu’s “no fry zone”—a roasted hanger steak with wasabi and garlic jus, served with celery root purée.

Tempura, robed in light, crisp batter, ranges from simple and classic (shrimp, shiitakes, green beans) to substantial and unorthodox (crab cake, chicken-fried steak). It can be ordered straight, accompanied by dipping sauces that might include jalapeño-soy and sweet miso, or tucked into po’ boy sandwiches.

This is a fine, if sometimes noisy, place for a drink and a bite or two (you might just get a free nibble from the chef). Cocktails are inventive and tasty; alysonlaurel says you can’t go wrong with the Darky Mark (Maker’s Mark, pomegranate, and bitters).

BarFry [Greenwich Village]
50 Carmine Street (between Bedford and Bleecker streets), Manhattan

Board Links: BarFry Review

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