Charles Gabriel, the wandering soul food master, is back in business in Harlem. His celebrated restaurant Southern Style Kitchen closed last year, then reopened a month ago as Charles’ Pan-Fried Chicken. bussy26 says it’s as good as ever. The signature skillet-fried chicken is beautifully seasoned and cooked to an impeccable crispness. “Absolutely delicious,” bussy says.

The rest of the cafeteria-style spread also delivers. Winners include sweet, meltingly tender barbecued pork ribs and some don’t-miss sides: mac ’n’ cheese, greens with just enough pork and salt, and show-stopping yams (“pure unadulterated delicious sugar”). This is “great stuff,” adds bussy, who confesses to indulging in “too many returns to the buffet line to count.”

Charles’ Pan-Fried Chicken [Harlem]
2837 Eighth Avenue (near 151st Street), Manhattan
212-281-1800

Board Link: Charles Fried Chicken-Welcome Back!

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