Moomin has had cemitas poblanas, those lovely sandwiches from Puebla, at most of the usual suspects around town: the taco trucks at Venice and Centinela, at Venice and Sepulveda, and at Pico and Cotner. A cemita with everything from La Zandunga doesn’t look much different from the usual cemitas: a seeded roll split and toasted, finger-thick segments of cheese, avocado, thinly sliced white onions, three whole chipotles in thick red adobo and a few slices of what looks like headcheese.
But one bite vindicates the genius sandwich artisan behind the counter at La Zandunga. “The balance of crisp toasted roll, smoky sweet spice of the chipotles, and unctuous richness of the cheese and the avocado makes the choice of meats nearly irrelevant,” says he. “Nearly, but not entirely. The sliced meats have both a porcine saltiness and a toothsomeness that most deli meats lack. It’s all melted together into a crispy molten mass that both tantalized and satisfied from first bite to last.”
They also have pambazos, another kind of sandwich dunked in salsa. But only after 6 p.m.
Pambazos and cemitas are $5 each.
In the same minimall, an Ensenada-style taqueria called Super Taco has replaced Mama Voula’s. Their selection of homemade salsas is excellent, and their fish tacos are fried, if a little limp. They’ve also got pretty appealing-looking tortas, on well-toasted rolls with black beans and the rest of the usual fixings.
La Zandunga Meat Market [West LA-ish]
11933 Santa Monica Blvd., at Stockton, Los Angeles
Super Taco [West LA-ish]
formerly Mama Voula’s
11923 Santa Monica Blvd., at Stockton, Los Angeles