Good meat is a defining amenity of cities these days. There are butcher shops where you can buy goat chops, and restaurants where poutine comes with blood-pudding gravy, and tartare is just not going to be satisfied until it’s on every menu everywhere. Meat is lifestyle.

San Francisco will get lifestylier in a few weeks when 4505 Meats opens its sit-down place on Divis, a street that used to be called the new Valencia but now, I don’t know, it’s turning into its own thing. The space at 705 Divisadero Street has a grandfathered smoke pit, and a patio for outdoor picnic tables. Ryan Farr told the Chronicle’s Inside Scoop that 4505 Meats Divisadero will be “casual” and “quick-service,” with mostly burgers and sausages—4505’s cheeseburger is a thing I’ve brought out-of-town relatives to Ferry Plaza to try, and told them not to stress about the ratio of size to price ($10 if you add a fried egg), just enjoy it, which they did.

Right now, 4505 Meats Divisadero is scheduled to open the third week in April. It’ll be a big day in San Francisco.

Photo of smoked chicken sandwich by Chelsea Elizabeth Photography

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