Judging by the wait time for a reservation, Stuart Brioza and Nicole Krasinski’s State Bird Provisions, which opened on Fillmore in January, has already attracted a solid fan base—or at least a curious crowd.
tjinsf files the first Chowhound report on the restaurant, where you’ll find “dim-sum style” service, with small plates moving through the room on trays and carts. According to tjinsf, the gimmick works, especially when it comes to Krasinski’s spectacular desserts.
About the desserts, think small—as in small portions and small price tags. At $4 each, tjinsf and his “horribly picky” wife ordered two plates, and found an appealing directness in the simple dark chocolate–pear ice cream sandwich with frozen sabayon. The milk chocolate sesame crunch with clementine-cocoa jam was a “complicated bliss” with layers of cream, candied clementine, and planks of sesame brittle.
Savory courses fared less well. The restaurant’s namesake—a deep-fried quail dish—lacked characteristic quail flavor, and while the ricotta cavatelli satisfied in terms of taste, its meager portion size failed to please. Only the halibut tartare with quinoa and a set of oysters with vinaigrette were the unqualified successes of the predessert bonanza.
As with many small-plate restaurants, tjinsf warns that it’s easy to rack up a sizable bill. Though none of the individual dishes cost more than $20, it’s temptingly easy to order with abandon from the carts wheeling through the room, which might mean spending more than you expected. Though as far as dessert is concerned, it sounds like money well spent.