Restaurants & Bars 4

Zare at Fly Trap

Joan Kureczka | Dec 28, 2008 08:34 AM

I would have thought someone would post before this, but I guess not. We went last evening for the first time since Hoss Zare took over the Fly Trap, and this is going to be a new favorite. They've kept the lovely decor, added some communal tables at the front and changed the menu completely, playing off some classic Persian flavors on a modern menu. The wine list is also one of the most fascinating I've seen, with lots of varietals I'm not too familiar with and wines from unusual locations, including a whole range from Lebanon's excellent Chateau Musar. There are about 17 wines by the glass, which was the way we went as we wanted very different things. All of our selections were good, but the Bodegas Godeval Godello from Valdeorras Spain was a stand out -- a very unusual and delicious white.

I started with an appetizer of lovely smoked trout, nestled in "noodles" of cucumber that were tossed with some creme fraiche and trout caviar. Light and very refreshing. DH had the green salad in a tarragon mustard dressing with parmesan crisp and crispy prosciutto. Good, but I felt the tarragon needed to be dialed back just a bit.

My main was the braised lamb shank that was served with fingerling potatos and some beans, along with a Persian relish that was a wonderful, tart contrast to the rich meat. DH had a fish special -- petrale done with a light breadcrumb crust and a bit of lemon and slightly tart currant sauce. He liked it quite a bit.

We shared a dessert that was simple, but decadent in flavor -- a very rich, smooth greek yogurt with truffled honey, accompanied by a biscotti with dried olive in it. OH YUM. I'm not much of a dessert person usually, but boy this was good!

Zare at Fly Trap
606 Folsom Street, San Francisco, CA 94107

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