Restaurants & Bars 6

Yung Kee, Oakland

Melanie Wong | Nov 16, 2004 12:23 PM

Stopped in Oakland Chinatown recently for a quick bite at Yung Kee (corner of Webster and 8th). My order of roast duck on braised noodles hit the table in less than 5 minutes.

The dish is called sieu op lo mein in Cantonese, but I hesitate to use that term here for fear of confusing New Yorkers who grew up eating some other concoction dubbed "lo mein". But here's a picture of what it looks like - a bed of plain boiled noodles braised/tossed in a little bit of soupy sauce. Most restaurants will provide a small bowl of broth on the side, but Yung Kee did not.

The fine egg noodles had the near-crisp, firm rubbery texture that Hong Kongers prize, but others sometimes consider undercooked. Delicious doused with duck jus. The serving of roast duck was generous. Skin was well-rendered and softly crisp, although the meat was not as tender as some versions and the seasoning was mostly in the drippings.. Not something to drive out of your way for, yet satisfying and good value for six bucks and change.


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