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Restaurants & Bars

Wild Rise in DUMBO - Pizza

Mike R. | Jan 25, 201212:12 PM     2

Fascinating addition to the competitive DUMBO pizza scene, finally tried Wild Rise after hanging their postcard ad on my wall five months ago. Entered thru 68 Jay Street Bar into bricked vaulted room with comfy side seating and small tablestands for your drinks and pies.

Had an opening round of Stella from the tap ($3 at happy hour) and a sprightly mixed greens/herbs/cheese chopped salad. Moved forward to the pies, made in 7 and 10-inch versions in a one-of-a-kind non-wood, non-coal oven, but visibly registering at 900 degrees plus. Ordered a shitake mushroom, buffalo mozz and garlic version which had the look and feel of other Neapolitan-type greatnesses such as Paulie Gee's and Keste. Even without the smoky-woodsy taste, the flavors were clean and the crust adequately chewy and charred nicely. Could've used a hunk more mushrooms to justify the price. Even better was a simple Marinara pie, a tomatoey delight made with San Marzanos. On request, was able to score some grated flavor-enhancing Grana Padano. These pies developed intensity as they sat, especially the crust's sweet-sour complexity, so try and wait a few minutes before eating. There's also a worthy-looking pepperoni pie on the menu.

Excellent and informed waitstaff, lady pizziaola and owner who has some new and unique ideas which may be ready to roll. I suggested some chile-infused oil on hand for us heat-freaks.

With this recent addition, Grimaldi's move, Original Patsy returning and Pete's closing, the DUMBO pie landscape further evolves. FYI, Wild Rise is only open Sun., Mon., Tues. evenings for now.

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68 Jay Street Bar
68 Jay St, Brooklyn, NY 11201

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