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Restaurants & Bars

Wild Honey, Mayfair, London

limster | Mar 21, 201001:59 PM     2

Firm resilient smoked eel worked well with the crispiness and tenderness of fried chicken wings, an interesting juxtaposition of textures from the two kinds of flesh. A sweet corn puree, what I thought might have been purslane salad, and pickled turnip provided good support, balancing the flavours into a multifaceted composition.

Tender veal, faintly rosy. A rounded sweetness from caramelised endive, ending with a pleasant bitter point from the endive. Soft blunted crunch from wet walnuts in a softer polenta. A straightforward and honest rendition, flavours focused and to the point.

A very soft and light spatburgunder (a German pinot noir) also complemented the chicken and eel well, with a nice acidity and water-colour fruit. The wine also paired well with the veal, the sweetness in the wine slightly attenuated by the caramelised endive to provide a more earthy flavour.

Satisfying livarot, pungent, nutty, with membrillo.

Finally, a down to earth pear clafouti with vanilla ice cream.

Well composed and nuanced "bistrot-level" cooking. Left happy and satisfied, even if I wasn't astounded. Reasonable prices for Mayfair, although admittedly I prefer Trinity in Clapham for a less pricey and more delicious meal.

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