Regrettably, we could not resist our guide's efforts to have us eat at the Culao Rest. Don't make our mistake. Instead, go to the river and look for stalls at dinnertime. Much of what is available is on display, generally pork sausage, fish and shrimp/langoustine and squid for grilling. Also chicken, duck, and pork ribs, chops, or belly, usually precooked. Pick what looks good, then look at the menu to find out what it will cost (small or large portion) and what additional dishes, e.g. vegetables, are available. Point out what you want and then head to the tables by the water. (Insect repellent is a useful adjunct at these rests.) While this is generally not GREAT CUISINE, it is excellent value-for-the-money, and the ambiance is hard to beat. Quite romantic actually, if the weather cooperates. Pay on the way out.