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Restaurants & Bars 4

Upscale in Memphis

TGP | Jul 2, 200502:23 PM

Memphis has created a monster in the past three years. The apperance of upscale dining in the form of Felicia Suzannes and Wally Joe gave other restaurants the freedom to raise their prices. Well, at Felicia's and Wally's you get service, ambience and skill for your upscale price. But at Stella, McEwen's and the restaurants that Donna built, you get stage set ambience, sub-standard service, food that's been played the point that you have no idea what the primary subject of the composition is and then you get hit with a tab that reflects the idea that when you walk out the door you should be able to walk down the street and be in the middle of Time Square.

Last night we went to Stella and had to call for service more times than I can count. The special was halibut. It arrived over a scoop of mashed sweet potatoes with a piece of baby bok choy. I still can't figure out how that came out of a kitchen that's recently been recognized by James Beard. And it cost $26.

I think we'll just stay home...I could've done much better.

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