General Discussion

The Universal Entree

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The Universal Entree

David A. | Nov 29, 2004 02:01 PM

I write in frustration. It seems these days that whether you go to a French, Italian, or American restaurant in the U.S. -- the kind of restaurant with entrees in the $20 to $30 range -- you wind up with precisely the same kind of main course: a piece of grilled/braised meat or grilled/steamed fish carefully balanced atop a mound of semi-exotic starch and wilted vegetable. This is usually surrounded by a moat of reduced wine or balsamic. I find this Ur-dish painfully boring: 1) I've had it a million times; 2) It lacks any discernable regional idiosyncracy or pungency; 3)It tends to lack any texture beyond the mushy, mushy-chewy, and mushy-flaky.

Is there a word for this kind of contemporary middle-brow default cuisine?

David A.

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