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Tulum, Tankah, and Playa report


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Tulum, Tankah, and Playa report

JojoSF | Apr 5, 2010 09:21 PM

Just back from Tulum. Here's the update:

1. Best new find for location (and fish): Chamica on the beach at Solomon's bay (aka Tankah 4, few minutes north of Tulum pueblo, turn to the beach at the Oscar Y Lalo sign. When you get to the guard shack, tell them you're going to Chamica and they'll let you through. It's at the very end of the road, right on the beach.) They do an excellent fried boquineta (fried pescado entero, 150 pesos). Best I've ever had, not greasy, includes rice and beans and green salad and tortilla. I recommend getting there when it's still daylight to enjoy the beach view. It's just a small wood shack on the sand. Excellent fish and excellent ambiance!

2. Best food for the pork lover: Taqueria Tony (aka the cochinita pibil guy next to the bus station) We just had Easter brunch at Thomas Keller's Ad Hoc restaurant in Yountville, where they were serving pulled pork. Tony beats Keller hands down! Basically, he cooks pork wrapped in banana leaves in the ground early in the morning. The restaurant opens at 6am and he usually runs out at noon-1pm. He also has chicken , but we didn't get any as he was already out. Tacos are 60 pesos, garnished with homemade pickled onions if you want. To find the restaurant, look for the Ado bus station in downtown Tulum on the inland side of the road. Tony is immediately next to the station on the right side. The 'restaurant' is 5 feet wide. Unbelievable! Don't miss it.

3. Los Pepes is still excellent for local style 'Mexican' food. Don't expect enchiladas, that isn't Yucatan style. I usually get the fried boquineta, 150 pesos. Excellent (but not quite as good as Chamica on my visits). However, still highly recommended! Nice guys, no tourists. It's located one block off the main street, heading inland, just past the large panaderia.

4. In Playa: We went to Nativo which is kitty corner to the Mega store on Constitution (it's actually on the street which is perpendicular to Constitution). We had steak tacos with green salad on the side (75-ish pesos) and large smoothies from fresh fruit. Superb! Also locals, no tourists. This place was recommended by one of the local lawyers. It's across the street from a good local market (and the Mega is good for a big-box store).

In Tulum town, we also tried La Nave (Italian/pizza) which was decent and Da Gigi (Italian) which was so-so. Also tried the ice cream shop at the end of the main street on the left which I thought was a bit too sweet and somewhat flavorless, but still good in a pinch. They have flavors like sweet corn and hazelnut! I'm not a big fan of Don Cafeto or Charlie's, but we didn't go this trip. We also didn't go to any 'fancy' places like Cetli, Tabano, Hechizo. It doesn't seem like the place for fancy!


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