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Restaurants & Bars 3

Triangle: Waraji Again

David A. | Feb 7, 200412:35 PM

I made my second visit to Waraji yesterday (Duraleigh Road, Raleigh) and can now confirm my initial inclination to call this the best restaurant in the Triangle (at least of the forty or fifty I've tried). What distinguishes Waraji is the incredible subtlety: every flavor is precise, nuanced, harmonious. Try the fish broth: you get what looks to be a small bowl of water, but what is actually an immensely delicate counterpoint of flavors. The best Japanese restaurant I've tried is the famous Matsuhisa in Beverly Hills($100 per person); Waraji ($30 per person) is not quite at that level, but it comes surprisingly close for one third the price.

A secret: ask for the "soft-shell crab appetizer." It's not on the menu, but it's on offer to those in- the-know. It's wonderful. I also recommend the Sweet Dragon Roll (tempura shrimp, eel, and avocado), the crunchy roll, and any roll containing soft-shell crab (soft-shell crab apparently being a specialty of the house).

David A.

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