Tremont 647 is a place that I used to love that has become frustratingly inconsistent. I get a couple of good meals, then one that's so-so, a problem in a place where prices have crept up steadily -- it hasn't been a real bargain in years. And the wine list is infuriating: most bottles are $45 and up, and almost none of them are worth it. But it does have outstanding bartending, and the service is generally good and friendly.
Fortunately, the kitchen was on its game on a recent visit (no sign of the boss on the line). An unusually good bread basket, with a terrific, crunchy flatbread. "Bacon of the gods" wasn't exactly divine: good home-smoked slab bacon diced into little cubes, but a surpisingly fiery grilled pineapple salsa made the dish. A pork tenderloin and carnitas plate was excellent, if rather fatty, with a fine oversized quesadilla with black beans and cheese.
Tater tots were lovely as usual, a giant, homemade, truffle-scented pair, though a side of pea tendrils were rather oversalted. A ribeye steak showed an outstanding bit of wood-fire grilling. A roasted lemon/garlic half-chicken was beautifully done. Very solid overall.
I'll be curious to see if my next meal hits this level. I'm kind of tired of the quality sine wave here.