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Restaurants & Bars 9

Trader Vic's Emeryville

Ken Hoffman | Nov 25, 2002 04:37 PM

It is the last of the breed. A wonderful retro ode to
kitsch of the South Pacific, this place just too mellow. The food is a glorious reminder of the good old stuff, too. Six plump crimson ribs with sweet and sour sauce and hot mustard were just perfectly prepared. Meaty, generous, juicy I could not stop devouring them. The chicken chow mein was like my non-Chinese mothers: huge chunks of white meat chicken, kind of gooey monochromatic veggies and crunchy out of the can noodles
served up in a supersized TVics mongrammed bowl. Tasty like crazy and in no way bad. I sat in the bar but the real action is in the romantic dining room looking out over the marina and bay beyond. This place has atmosphere squared. Don't overlook it.

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