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Melanie Wong | Nov 17, 200103:37 AM    

I finally had a chance to check out the other taco truck in this neighborhood. La Frontera is parked in the furniture store lot near the corner of Sonoma Blvd. and Marineworld Pkwy, across the road from Jack-in-the-Box.

The offerings include the usual suspects for making tacos, tortas and burritos, plus buche, birria, cabeza, sesos, lengua, and longaniza. Sopes, huaraches, tostadas and cocteles de camarones are available too. When I asked for a huarache, the order taker asked me whether I knew what that was. I made the shape of a large oval with my hands and said, "de masa". He was surprised and asked me where I'd eaten these. When I replied that I'd bought them from a truck in Santa Rosa, he nodded as if that made sense. I then asked whether longaniza would be a good choice for huarache, and he recommended it saying that they use a meaty, non-greasy source.

The huarache ($3.50) here has a crisper texture and is less tender/chewy than Delicias Elenitas in SR. I liked the contrast. It's also piled higher with meat on top of the surface striped with salsa verde, tomato salsa and hot sauce. A blizzard of crumbly queso blanco covers the whole shebang. Accompaniments are sliced radishes, corn chips, and grilled cebollitos (scallions). The cebollitos are presented wrapped up in aluminum foil, rather than placed on the plate. This allows them to steam to tenderness and the whole thing can be chewed easily, whereas I usually only eat the white end.

I'll be back to try more from the menu.

The truck is here from 8:30am to 8pm. There are a couple tables with chairs to eat on-site, however, it's not as well-lit as Juanita's on the next block. Also, this is a busy intersection with many big rigs and the aroma of Popeye's chicken wafts overhead.

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