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Restaurants & Bars 4

(a) New taqueria in Joliet; (b) Ceviche primer needed

Mugs | Mar 6, 200409:17 PM

(a) Supermercado y Taqueria La Loma opened eight days ago on the western edge of the Ridgewood neighborhood on Joliet's East Side. I carried out chicken tacos for lunch, and they were so good I went back for more for supper. These are the first chicken tacos in which I've found chicken bones, which sincerely pleases me because the meat in too many chicken tacos down here is finely shredded pink stuff that brings to mind tuna and cat food. The supper tacos had more meat in them than the lunch ones and included grilled onions and green chiles while the lunch ones did not. As someone smitten with the home-kitchen unpredictability of Collins Street's Restaurante Amanecer Tapatio, La Loma's taco variation is fine with me.

La Loma doesn't yet have its full menu posted or printed although a sandwich board on the curb lists more than tacos, including birria. What La Loma does have from its north parking lot is an unobstructed view of the campanile and roof of St. Ray's Cathedral several miles west across the canal. Such vistas and reminders that Joliet is indeed in the DesPlaines River Valley are rare nowadays.

From Int. 80, exit Briggs St. north. From Briggs turn left and go east on Cass (US 30). Turn right onto Walnut at the first light. La Loma is at the crest of the hill, just a couple of blocks south of Silver Cross Hospital.

Supermercado y Taqueria La Loma
410 Walnut St.

(b) There is a sign touting ceviche at La Loma. I asked for some at noon and was told "It isn't ready yet," which I took as a good omen. It was ready at suppertime, so I got a pound ($4.89). This is the first time I've had ceviche. La Loma's is minced and pink and looks like my mother-in-law's ham salad; I was expecting bigger pieces of fish, like herring. What's normal? The taste is OK, but I don't know how to eat it. On crackers? Is ceviche ever eaten warmed? Is it good mixed with black beans or anything?

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