Had lunch in at this restaurant in Riquewihr. The style is a bold mix of modern twists and traditional ingredients, not unlike the statement making decor - heavy red walls in a dining room that is supported by the traditional wooden beams, stout and dark.
I wonder if the chef here had taken a few pages from other restaurants in the area. The amuse bouche is a shrimp and crab bisque not unlike the one I had ate Au Crocodile. The shrimp flavor wasn't as intense, but Table du Gourmet's version was piqued by an intersting bit of spiciness.
Next, a bite of grilled meat with cream sauce, green onion and a marsala sauce - a nice echo of Au Crocodile's.
The foie grass terrine was good - sweetened with a dessertworthy caramel sauce, a fig puree with a lovely concentrated flavor and my favorite touch - hazelnuts! The combination of flavors is not meant to be subtle but the forward effect of sweet fruit, golden caramel and a woodsy nutty crunch from the lightly toasted hazel was exceptionally enjoyable.
The main dish was a hunk of sandre (pike perch, according to my phrasebook) with a very creamy texture - a very well cooked fish. It rests with an Alsatian hominess on a bed of sauerkraut (I had read about this combo served in several Colmar restaurants). Nearby are crispy leaves of potato and there is a cream sauce that puts everything together.
Dessert was a chocolate medley - orange sorbet covered with drizzled arcs of chocolate and reinforced by a paper thin piece of candided orange, chocolate mousee with shards of hazelnut crumble, and a lighter chocolatey diplomat (a molded dessert not unlike panna cotta) with its thin crisp chocolate wafer.
The beautiful presentation of all the dishes and their ability to pull of a work intensive dessert like this makes me think that this ambitious kitchen is going to do really well.
Service was friendly, solicitious and the mood was casual. When they noticed I didn't smoke and a couple next me pulled out a cigarette, they offered to move me right away.
All in all, a bright and delicious lunch.
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