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Boston Area

Sweet Potato Fries at Bison County


Restaurants & Bars

Sweet Potato Fries at Bison County

C. Simon | Jan 1, 2003 07:00 PM

What a revelation.

We started with Spicy South Carolina Wings. Delicious. A mustard based sauce with a hint of honey adorned chicken wings that were char-grilled to perfection, hiding a slightly smoky flavor in the charred black skin.

Then, we each had a respectable bison burger. One of us had regular fries, which were certainly above-average, if a little greasy for some tastes (perfect for mine).

But, the other side was sweet potato fries. Wow.

Sometimes -- sweet, salty, and rich flavors compete with one another. The battle between the assertive flavors is often what makes a dish interesting. Southeast Asian food like Thai and Cambodian offer good examples of such dishes. Strong assertive sweet, sour, and spicy flavors all vie for the lead roll and the result is challengingly delicious mayhem.

Bison County's sweet potato fries are another thing altogether. Here, rather thatn competing for attention, the disparate flavors blend together into a harmonious singular greatness. The sweetnesss of the potato, a hint of salt, and the rich flavor of the fat in which they are fried all come together to form a whole which is greater than the parts. Very, very good.

What's more, we were sufficiently pleased with the wings and burgers that we speculated that some of the other items may merit future visits. Catfish nuggets? Arizona spring rolls? Something tells me that the starring role at this place is played by the sweet potato fries, but perhaps the rest of the menu is worth a look.

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