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Sushi Two Ways -- Kotobuki and Jeff R. (of Tako Grill/Signatures/Atlantico)


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Sushi Two Ways -- Kotobuki and Jeff R. (of Tako Grill/Signatures/Atlantico)

Marty L. | Jul 8, 2004 10:57 PM

Two bits of unrelated sushi news:

1. I'm gettin' to be quite taken with Kotobuki. On my first couple of visits, the fish was blah -- what one would expect for a buck a piece. Since then, I've come to realize that the strengths of this place are: (i) the rice, which is consistently the right texture and temperature; and (ii) the vegetables, such as those that come with the Kamameshi, and those among the appetizers. And wouldn't you know it?: The fish is getting better, too. Not world class or anything, not even Makoto or Sushi-Ko class. But much better than the run-of-the-mill sushi bar around here, and *still* only a buck a piece! (Two bucks for makizushi.) For lunch today, I had the chirashi. Although it includes some stuff I don't even like (ebi, salmon), it was really good, and an extremely generous meal, too (for eight dollars). My father had the chicken kamamehsi, which came with the four "veggies" of the day, today including a really tasty yellowtail collar (not a veggie, to be sure) and some light but gently sweet (egg?) tofu sort of thing. With the miso soup and green tea -- both superlative, by the way -- enough food for the entire day. Nine dollars. (P.S. The mochi is (mochi are?) really good, too.)

2. Jeff Ramsey, the sushi chef with the magic fingers at Tako Grill many moons ago (there are old threads on this Board singing his praises), left TG to set up the sushi bar at Signatures downtown, and then was supposed to be leaving these parts for Colorado a couple of years back. I don't know if he did, but apparently he's back (or still) at Signatures, and is soon going to work at Cafe Atlantico, too. This info from a very interesting Eve Zibart column in tomorrow's Post. The Zibart piece focuses on Jeff's more unorthodox creations, which I recall being very good, indeed (and not simply a gross, "Cream-Cheese-Roll"-like gimmick). But he's really accomplished at simply choosing and cutting great fish, too, and at cobbling together an interesting and delicious meal of sushi and sashimi. Putting his skills to work for Jose Andres and Kats at Atlantico could turn out to be a magical bit of serendipity.


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