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Surprisingly good pizza at Pronto in Redwood City


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Surprisingly good pizza at Pronto in Redwood City

David Sloo | Jan 9, 2007 06:36 PM

Competition for good pizza on the Peninsula is sparse. Many styles are represented, and edible pizzas come as diverse as fairly thin crust pies at the Amici's chain to thick, sweet crust at Applewood. With few exceptions, local pizza is unexceptional. Pizzerias do reasonable business with largely mundane ingredients -- especially the mozzarella -- and dull sauces.

Pronto is a rotisserie and pizzeria on El Camino in Redwood City. Their oven burns wood. The style is what is widely known as New York, which is to say a round pie made with white dough, not very sweet, rolled fairly thin with a slightly thickened edge and usually with red sauce and mozzarella cheese.

We had a simple pie called "Chicken Rustica": just shreds of rotisserie chicken, red sauce, and mozzarella. The chicken is flavorful and not too dry -- dry chicken is very common on pizzas, alas. The sauce is a simple red sauce, but not watery -- reprehensible watery red sauce afflicts some of the best-rated pizzas in New York and New Jersey. And the mozzarella, while acceptable, was applied with too heavy a hand -- I wish pizzerias would spend twice as much on their mozzarella and apply half their customary amount.

But it gets better: we also ordered a 9-inch (small) pizza bianca, with just dough and cheese. This was a bit thinner than the larger pie, and the mozzarella was applied with a lighter hand. On removing the pizza from the oven, the pizza-tender brushed olive oil around the edge, which is one of the core techniques for keeping the crust edible. The blackened bits and the wood-smoke flavor were very nice.

Pronto would be better if they would make a spicier red sauce. In the future, I will always ask for a frugal amount of cheese. And I think I might always buy the small pie for its thinness.

Pronto in Redwood City makes perfectly respectable pies, and we will go back.

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