Restaurants & Bars

Boston Area

Stella, South End, Boston

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Stella, South End, Boston

Limster | Nov 15, 2005 10:54 PM

A very stylish and modern dining room and bar, coloured in milk, caramel and dark olive.

Nice, basic foccacia, pleasant with a dense, well set bean puree in lieu of butter.

Duck risotto carries clear duck flavour without the heaviness. Garlic lends weight, fried sage a crispy herbal counterpoint to sweet butternut squash. Well made, satisfying and certainly my favourite of the evening. Risotto's a little overcooked, as in most places, the centre of the grains soft when it should be hard and pearly. I'd give the one at North Street Grille an edge.

The remaining pasti miss the mark, both pass al dente, soft when they could have had a stiff centre or a complex elasticity.

The brillant green points of asparagus are too sparse in the linguine. The truffle oil in the sauce was meek, the flavour dominated mostly by cream. I did love the poached egg that yielded a lovely yolk, enriching the sauce.

The bolognese sauce is quite tasty on the tagliatelle, but it's much lighter than I personally prefer, without the deep inexorable richness that I like in this type of sauce. I would quibble that a bit more sauce would once again help with the balance of the dish; but it's a quibble.

A very good chocolate mousse, rich, airy, with large biscotti crumbs on top.

Very reasonable pricing, generous servings, somewhat ordinary food, if what I had was typical. I wouldn't go out of the way for dinner here, but wouldn't mind hanging out there if I was in the South End late at night.

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