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V Steakhouse panned by The New Yorker


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V Steakhouse panned by The New Yorker

Nor'easter | Mar 29, 2005 10:37 AM

Here are some excerpts from Owen Phillip's panning of V Steakhouse in this week's New Yorker. Follow the link below for the full article.

"Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s latest establishment might just be Manhattan’s first embarrassing piece of Vegas backwash, complete with a Cirque du Soleil-style soundtrack, red velvet upholstered chairs, and gilded fake trees."

* * *

"Vongerichten’s idea of updating the classic American steak house is to simply ignore its conventions—including the quaint notion that the steak should be especially good. Recently, a rare order came out medium, while a medium rare came out medium gray. You won’t even want to send it back, since by this point in the meal you’ll already be looking forward to leaving. The single-serving, sixty-six-dollar porterhouse, nearly twenty dollars more expensive than the priciest steaks at the best steak houses in town, is depressing. There’s no crunch to the exterior, no juice to the interior, and no flavor at all. The Niman Ranch New York Strip steak is even odder, with the smooth texture of tofu. Other cuts of meat, such as the filet mignon and the veal-rib chop, are less offensive, but they still lack character. Among the many accompaniments offered—Vongerichten has maintained the traditional side-order shakedown—are something called Fripps, a bland tempura-battered slice of potato that the servers push with suspicious enthusiasm."

* * *

"If nothing else, diners will have the pleasure of knowing that their next meal, however humble or exalted, will taste terrific and seem like a bargain."


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