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Restaurants & Bars 3


Donnie C | May 14, 2005 11:35 PM

Just had our first experience at the "new" Standard (and yes I am aware that the Single Gourmet has already been there and done that.) Our visit was more about the food and less about being there.
We really loved the old Standard in Deep Ellum and were disappointed when it closed. However, sometimes it just works out for the best and this is one of those times.
If you remember the old Martini Ranch, well, you won't for long. Standard occupies that space and it has been completely remodeled. The long single staircase to the second floor remains but all else is new. There are nice comfortable overstuffed chairs and banquettes with shabby chic paintings stacked on rails around the room. It already has that settled in feel.
The most remarkable thing to me about the food is that having been many times to the old Standard, I was immediately aware that the new financial backing was apparent on the plate. The menu is very similar to the old spot but everything is bigger, better and finer.
The menu is New American with Tim Byrne's slant, which means that old favorites take on new dimensions without losing any of the usual comfort factor. I had his signature beef short ribs which are an exquisite example of the genre. The ribs are highly rendered and then the lean meat is reassembled into what used to be a narrow rectangle of solid rib meat and is now a square (and believe me more is better.) The salmon came rare and wonderful. The halibut was steamed and presented in a lidded copper pan. The aromatics were dramatic when the lid was lifted.
Appetisers included an incredible five spice quail salad and the signature shrimp pancake. Both were stellar.
Desserts are not to be missed. The XS chocolate cake is a perfect cross between cake and fudge, the triple (3 pots) creme brulee (vanilla, cinnamon, and blackberry)was a delight and the fried apple pie with root beer granita was indeed a blast from the past.
Overall, Standard is a destination restaurant and one that will become a long term Dallas institution. A definite top 3 meal of the year.

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