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Some stalls at Cabbages & Frocks Market, Marylebone, London

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Some stalls at Cabbages & Frocks Market, Marylebone, London

limster | May 24, 2008 05:05 PM

• Minghella Ice Cream
Very good flavour in the kirsch cherry ice cream, bright and evocative of the fruit and liquer. A nice luxuriant texture that is not chewy.

• Portuguese stall
Many nice strands of salt cod in the potatoey pastel be bacalao. Not freshly fried, but pretty good for what it was.

• Nutmeg
The shortbread had a good snap and crumbled nicely into tiny crumbs, but the advertised flavour, was hard to catch...I can't even remember what flavour they claims it had.

• Naturally Indulgent
A cheerful effort at chocolate making that's worth encouraging. The temper isn't as precise as some of the more high-end places (e.g. William Curley) but it's good value for the price and the ganaches are smooth and dense. Several varieties, my favourite was the cinnamon honey - a ganache where the honey flavor was really obvious and well integrated; harder to catch the cinnamon , but was pleased that it wasn't overpowering.

Almond and apricot had a more prominent marzipan flavour, with the fruit coming in more quietly in the finish.

Beautiful toasted pistachio flavour in the pistachio caramel.

Saffron and sichuan pepper came across was being mellow and smooth with maybe just the slightly shadow of the pepper.

I liked the fig and mustard -- a warm backdrop of subtle mustard and concentrated fruit in the dried figs to contrast the chocolate.

Umeboshi (Japanese pickled plum) with sesame and vodka was fine -- just a tang from the fruit, and toasty sesame.

The quality of the tempering was most evident in the coated chocs made with water, instead of the cream. Just plain water was good but could use better tempering for a more brilliant snap.

Rosemary and sea salt uses the classic contrast of salty and sweet flavours and works well because the right touch of salt was used. Hard to sense the rosemary flavour.

Anko (red bean) gave a nice beany texture and flavour to the chocolate, but the advertised oolong flavour could have been more prominent.

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