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Spago Report - March 11, 2005

ipse dixit | Mar 14, 200502:34 PM

Had the pleasure of dining at Spago on Friday night.

While the meal was pleasant, the more times I go to Spago the more I question why people think Spago is the quote, unquote epitome of fine dining in LA (or, is it?).

For example, we had a chopped vegetable salad with shaved parmasen cheese - it was fine, but would write home about it? No.

The other appetizers like the lemon herb bilini with smoked salmon was, simply put, a bad mix. The crepe tasted and felt tired and rubbery and did not complement the fish well a all. The vegetable spring rolls with the mustard had a synthetic taste to them ... maybe that's what the mustard was for? To cover up that plasticky sensation of the rolls?

The entrees were fine. The grilled filet mignon was delicious and its richness made it taste (e.g. mouth feel) like Kobe beef. The grilled salmon with the curry was a bit odd, but the dish carried itself surprisingly well, even though at first glance one might think the heaviness of the curry would not complement an oily fish like salmon.

Dessert is always a highlight (thank you Sherry Yard!). Baked appel with caramel streudel and ice cream was sweet and satisfying without being overbearing.

Suffice it to say, Spago is a fine restaurant, but I just don't understand what all the fuss is about.

Good? Yes.

Great? Mabye.

The Best? No.

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