We have bombed through Tuscany a couple of times now and have been disheartened by the Tourist onslaught (I wonder how Frances Mayes feels for singlehandedly ruining Coronta -- although La Grotta there, down the alley from the main piazza, is still very good -- reserve or you won't get in!). So we are renting a place in southern Umbria, about 15 minutes south of Orviet0, and were wondering if anyone is intimate with that area. The nearest town is Montevecchio.
Money on this vacation is not tight, but we have learned, almost without exception, that the food in the fanciest places is rarely worth it (although, if it is, we'd love to hear). Trattorias are just fine.
Also, we will be in Rome for five days and would be rabidly happy to hear about anything inspiring. We love, love, love to eat and have a four year old who is just like us! He looked at a plate of salmon once and said, "Are you going to leave it like that?" and I said, "What do you mean?" and he said, "Where's the sauce?"
Thanks in advance!