Restaurants & Bars 14

Some Singapore/Malaysian Places, London

limster | May 2, 200803:43 PM

• Singapore Gardens, Swiss Cottage

Very good otak otak, (a fish mousse wrapped in banana leaves and grilled). The right spicing. But rather expensive at ~£7-8 for 3 or 4 of those.

Char Kuay Teow, stir fried flat rice noodles is good, with the right balance of textures - crunchy bean sprouts, soft noodles, crisp leafy green veg (cai3 xin1, sorry don't know name in English), egg, prawns. The pork slices weren't necessary (the versions back home don't have it) but didn't hurt. Would have wanted the Chinese waxed sausage. Good flavour, thanks to the proper use of lard and fried fatty pork bits. Wasn't expecting to see versions with cockles here and didn't.

Chendol is also classic. Palm sugar and coconut milk (what's not to love?) and red bean, noodley strips made with rice flour (think trofie) and an agar made with black seaweed.

• Kiasu, Bayswater

Solid kuay pie tee -- a little cup made from fried batter, filled with vegetables (typically the same types that go into poh piah), with a shrimp on top, some cilantro. Could have used some of the Hokkien dark sweet sauce and more chilli sauce wouldn't hurt. But it's good.

The beef rendang is tender and has essentially textbook flavour. Not the best of it's kind, but damn good.

Coconut rice is not really worth it, which makes me think that their nasi lemak is going to be weak...

Teh tarik (literally, pulled tea, where a milk tea is frothed by pouring from one container to another over great heights). This version is ok, could be more frothy, nothing special.

• Nyonya, Nottinghill

Ordinary laksa -- very rich with lots of coconut milk, but it's missing the right blend of spices (plus it doesn't have laksa leaves). No cockles either. But a good amount of prawns. Chicken, fishcake and tau pok (puffy fried beancurd). Could have more bean sprouts.

The nyonya kuih (Nyonya refers to the culture/cuisine created from Chinese/Malay inter-marriage, it's native to Singapore, Malaca and Penang; kuih/kueh = cakes or sweets) is worth trekking out there for; first time I've seen them outside Singapore. 3 types of nyonya sweets in the dessert plate - a chewy yellow one made with tapioca and coconut, a 9 layer cake made with glutinous rice flour, a pandan flavoured coconut custard atop dense glutinious rice that has the perfect nuance of salt to go against the sweetness of the custard. Excellent, especiallly the last variety.

• Makan, Nottinghill

Decent curry puffs, not greasy, fairly fresh, could always use more onion in the filing and more spice won't hurt. But good deal at 2 for £1.

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