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Shrimp Wonton Noodle Soup and Empress Chicken @ W&M Cafe, Fremont

Melanie Wong | Dec 24, 2005 02:31 AM

This week I returned to W&M for a quick lunch of wontons and a side of chicken. Both were top notch. The place was close to full and now it's harder to get a parking space on this end of the lot. It's been discovered.

#60, Shrimp Wonton Noodle Soup, $5.25 - Six tender dumplings each stuffed with three or four whole shrimp bound together with a smidgen of pork forcemeat bob atop a mass of perfectly cooked, ultra-fine and firm noodles. The seasoning in the wontons was quite subdued, allowing the fresh sweetness of the shrimp to shine. The broth was fine with less of the dried seafood flavor.

#3, Steamed Chicken, $5.00 - This is actually gwei fei wo mo gai, aka empress chicken made with a special yellow-crowned bird. It was a great example with silky flesh, taut firm skin, and harmonious flavors. Even better, the meat had been cut away from the bone and tendon then reassembled making it much easier to eat. My serving had some of the leg and part of the breast. Even the white meat was velvety and succulent. The ginger and scallion oil condiment was ultrafresh and a perfect counterpoint to the salting.

More about empress chicken (aka concubine chicken) -

My brother has been here a few times with his friends and recommends the beef brisket tossed noodles, porridges, dry fried beef chow fun, salt and pepper chicken wings, and the pandan dessert. Again, none of the dishes are unusual here. But they are prepared with out of the ordinary care and skill. My waiter told me that the owner used to run Lucky Palace in Union City.



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