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Short Report on Range [San Francisco]

mariacarmen | May 15, 201211:08 AM

I found this visit (Mother's Day night) to Range slightly less stellar than others I've had. My main complaint was that my flounder with favas was very one-note - in flavor and appearance - a big green swirl with green things in it that all tasted the same - notwithstanding the dish contained kumquats and a pistachio pesto. The fish was cooked perfectly, but since flounder is a very mild fish, the accompanying sauce needed some oomph. The asparagus salad with fromage blanc and grated beets was good but also lacked a little spark of something....but the little gems salad with an herby buttermilk dressing was great - light and refreshing - and deliciously dill-y. My BF's bavette steak was good, perfectly ruby-rare, but rather small-portioned; however, the beef cheeks canneloni that came with it were outstanding - probably the best thing on the table - rich and yummy. The salmon with artichokes was very good - the salmon tasted milder than most salmon dishes I've had (which i liked) and went very well with the artichokes. The chicken was wonderful as usual - salty, crispy-skinned - great. In my opinion, Range does chicken better than anyone at this price point (even Zuni's).

Service was good but we were seated in that little hallway space, that always feels to me like an after-thought.

A few pics, below.

I'd go again but not with as much alacrity as I have in the past.

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