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Fidelixi | Sep 8, 200305:52 PM     3

My wife and I were at sixes and sevens Saturday night (after spending way too many hours watching the US Open), so after taking a drive up the coast we moseyed back and somehow wandered into Rockenwagner, where I hadn't been for a good year and a half. The place had been redesigned (no newsflash, I know) and it was the first time I'd seen it. It's warmer, more casual and very harmonious, and the low lighting lends quite a nice ambience. We sat at the bar and had just two dishes: moules frites and foie gras with sauternes jelly. They were both oustanding. I was very pleasantly surprised. Why suprised? Well, I guess, picking up on another thread, because I so rarely feel anything other than disappointed in too many places. The mussels were as good as any I've had, including the many that I've collected myself in Maine. They were briny and fresh and in a broth that was buttery and deliciously salty. The foie gras was a smooth terrine -- strong flavored, not too much cream I imagine -- and the beautiful, amber jelly cubes provided a terrific contrast with their distinct and concentrated taste of clover, honey and acid. A nice big Hefeweizen hit the spot, too. I can't wait to go back for a full dinner...maybe in the "nice" room?

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