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report Lucas Carton

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report Lucas Carton

mdibiaso | May 23, 2003 08:30 AM

I had two wonderful meals, a lunch and a dinner, at Lucas Carton on my last visit to Paris. The dinner was first, there was nice amuses of crab with thai vinegrette and a scallop ravioli with some apple and raisins joined by some champagne. The first course was the famous langoustine wrapped in vermicelli that you dip in a rich seafood creme sauce and then in some sliced roasted almonds. You eat with your hands and it is simply put, sensous. You could get drunk on this without the wine, but the wine served by that glass is a wonder Meursault Charmes 1997 from L. Jadot. Rich, with wonderful oak tones to pair with the almonds. Next was tempura of sole with creamy cucumbers and asparagus served with curry. Another one of my favorites only on the menu in the spring when the sole is best. The matching Condrieu Grandes Chaillées 2000 is perfect with the curry, flowery exotic, a really big wine. Next was morels stuffed with morels. These morels were huge. There was some jabuga ham and apples with this to pair with the flinty Fourchaume 1993 chablis. Again a perfect match of food and wine. The final main courses was pigeon with almonds matched with a 1981 Chat Palmer. The Palmer is extremely elegant and a great pairing to the pigeons that had a heavily reduced sauce that was almost sweet. For dessert I started with a merigue with Szechuan pepper served with a crystallized lemon marmalade, ginger ice-cream served with Moscadello di Montalcino 1999 - Tenuta Col d'Orcia a sweet and very exotic Italian wine. Lot of exotic flavors that both blended and contrasted with each other. A great way to clear the palate as well. Then there was the richest chocolate I have every had. I had seen it before, Coulant de Samana (a vintage chocolate from Valrhona) and thougt it was a cake since it round. It is not a cake. It seemed like pure melted chocholate with a little cream. Served with heated cherries that tasted like they were marinated in spirits, but I was assured there was nothing there but the cherries. Apparently these are special cherries from Italy with amazing depth of flavor. Served with a 20 year old Fonseca Port A truly decadent dessert to end a wonderful evening. Needless to say the service was perfection as it always is at Lucas Carton.

The next day for lunch I had their 76Euro formula. First was the tapas amuse (you get to choose your amuses at Lucas Carton to match your appertif) Mine were anchovies with bellota ham toast and then a baby squid stuffed with red peppers and spanish ham and some
fried tentacles with squid ink. The sherry I drank matched this very nicely. Next was a Lucas Carton classic. Foie gras, wrapped in cabbage steam served with salt and pepper. Only four ingredients counting the salt and pepper and truly magnificent. I actually forget the wine now and did not put it in my notes. But I remember hating myself for never having ordered this before. You must try this if you ever go to Lucas Carton. Apparently even if it is not on the menu you may be able to get it at dinner. It is always on the lunch menu. Next was veal braised for 72 hours to an unctuous texture, some leeks and a marvelous red burgandy that came alive with the rich, sweet flavors of the meat. Country style cooking at its best. After all this I could could manage was ice cream and sorbet for dessert. Needless to say they were totally fresh and excellent. I cannot continue to recommend this place higher even though there is the change I note in another posting.

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