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Report: BBQ Hound`s First Texas BBQ Pilgrammage to Austin aka Kruez, the foie gras of brisket

vinouspleasure | Nov 18, 200604:37 PM

Got a call the other day from a colleague in NJ to see if I could spend time with a client helping them understand a new technology. I'm unbelievable busy at work, so, not really sure I could spare the day, I asked where in NJ I had to go. "NJ?" my colleague replied, "we're in austin, tx". A little flustered, I asked "Boston?". "No, AUSTIN". I asked him to hold for a second, googled Kreuz Market, got the address, headed over to mapquest, requested driving directions from austin to Kreuz Market and saw it was less than 30 minutes from the airport. "I'll be there" I said.

I had read about Kreuz in books by Steve Raichlen and Alan Mills (Peace, Love and BBQ) but never thought I'd get there since most of our business is in the NY metro area. I posted a note in this forum and recieved great, frendly advice from the denizens of this board.

Got up at 4:30am on the day of departure so I could catch a flight that would get me to austin by lunch time. After landing, I rented a car and pointed it towards lockhart, home of Kreuz, Smittys and Blacks. Armed with chowhound advice, my intent was to try all three places over the course of 1.5 hours and then head to my client.

I found Kreuz first. I had skipped dinner the night before and the subsequent breakfast, so I was mighty hungry. Before getting advice from chowhounders, I thought Kreuz was known for brisket and clod. However, after reading many posts, I knew I had to try a wide range of meat. I ordered two slices of fatty brisket, a sausage link and two pork ribs.

I was a little nervous about the fatty brisket, thinking it would have pieces of fat throughout. Nothing could be further than the truth. It was moist and delicious, the brisket almost melted in my mouth. The extra fat content added luxiourus texture and extra flavor to the food, reminding me of great foie gras.

In my BBQ cirles, Texas is known for beef, not pork ribs. After one bite of a Kreuz rib, I knew this was a mistake. No fancy, twenty ingredient rub or sauce here, these are ribs for grownups with a a bold, assertive seasoning of salt and lots of fresh ground pepper. Thats it, thats all it takes, and I can't wait to try to reproduce it on my WSM.

I'm not a big sausage eater. Once in a great while I'll make sausage and peppers but I'm just not a big fan. Kreuz sausage could make me change my mind. The casing is thick and has a nice pop. Inside is meat...not gristle, not fat, just well seasoned meat and its delicous.

Before entering Kreuz, I believed that I had made great brisket on my WSM...something close to what is made in Texas. After eating at Kreuz, I realized I was sadly mistaken. Throw in the sausage and the ribs and it adds up to a top 3 bbq experience (sweatman's, sc and wilburs, nc are the others). Smitty's was up next.

I loved Smitty's old building and the old pit right in front of you is great. I decided to order 2 slices of fatty brisket, one port rib and a pork chop. Started with the brisket...a little dry, a little tough, not the great flavor or texture from Kreuz. On to the rib, it was certainly competently made, had a sweet exterior, but wait, I make great honey ribs all the time. A little undewhelmed and disappointed, I moved on to the pork chop where I hit paydirt. Moist, subtly smoked and tender, almost without seasoning, this was arguably the best pork chop of my life. Another research project for my home WSM. At this point I was beyond full and made the agonizing but prudent decision to skip Blacks.

Though Smittys suffered in this comparison, I wouldn't put all too much stock in it. I've cooked enough ribs and brisket at home to know that there is variation day to day and even brisket to brisket. Additionally, I was very hungry at Kreuz and not so hungry at Smittys.

I want to thank everyone that gave me advice in the aforementioned thread. Without it, I wouldn't have known to order fatty brisket, pork chops or ribs. Hopefully the client will have me back and I can find my way back to Lockhart for Blacks, some prime rib and a little more sausage comparison. I also regret not getting to Meullers or eating mexican food.


wait...I forgot about the Salt Lick brisket sandwich at the airport. I was stuck at the airport on the way home. Although people had warned me off of the Salt Lick, compared to the other airport choices, it seemed like a good bet. I ordered a brisket sandwich and they pulled a new brisket out for me. It had clearly been smoked and had nice bark. They put some sauce on it, I put some of their spicy cole slaw on the sandwich. The brisket may not have been great by texas standards but it was world class by NY standards.

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