I can't believe there's actually someplace that gets it. On Main Street in Winfield MO, it's a bit out of the way, but bases on a small sample (brisket and sauce), The Fat Texan has the goods.
The brisket has that heavy but mild smoke you only get from slow cooking with a properly tended wood fire. The sauce, based on the brisket pan drippings has a depth of flavor I haven't found elsewhere in a restaurant setting.
The pit was fabricated by the proprietor, and sits out back amid stacks of his favorite fuel, pignut hickory. He says it took him a long time to adjust to the peculiarities of local Missouri varieties of hickory to get the character he was after.
Hours are currently limited, until he finds someone who can spell him at monitoring the pit.
No liquor license presently, and he has been pressured into no longer allowing beer to be brought in from across the street.
I have passed by a few times and thought I should stop on the off chance that they served something worthwhile. What caught my eye as I was passing recently was the collection of vintage pinballs near visible from the street. Old school mechanical pinballs and a couple of pool tables give the place an atmosphere that I thought was gone from this world.