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Outer Boroughs

The Ranger -- in former Pearson's space

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Restaurants & Bars

The Ranger -- in former Pearson's space

David Sprague | Feb 9, 2005 08:41 AM

Swung by the newly-opened spot -- in the back of Legends bar in Jackson Heights, for those keeping score at home -- and left, for the most part, even more bummed at Pearson's departure.

Space looks exactly the same, the servers are very pleasant and the equipment is unchanged -- meaning the meat actually does show some sign of smoke -- but that's about it for positives.

Bad sign #1 came upon delivery of the menu, which trumpeted a Texas brisket sandwich -- topped with fried onions and American cheese (!. Things didn't get a whole lot better when our order arrived: the "Carolina pork" sandwich (which, anywhere within 500 miles of Carolina, is understood to be pulled pork) arrived in extremely thick slices. pork itself was decent quality, if a little lacking in crunchy bits.

We also went for some by-the-pound stuff, not so much for carb avoidance as for maximum meat exposure. Hot links were good quality, sliced a little thin, but packing enough pop to be worthwhile. The brisket, mercifully cheese-free, was mediocre, as mushy as the stuff that disappointed me at dinosaur (another post altogether).

admittedly, they've only been open a short time, and may be getting their bearings. but even though it's just a few blocks away, i probably won't be giving 'em too many more chances.

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