so... Zia Pina, an old favorite, is already closed for rebuild for more than 1 year, and from what I see happening it does not look promising (heading to become a tourist trap). That New York times article a while back in the ruined it: Padre Aldo which 15 years ago was honest street bbq now has a 25,- tourist menu, and Rosso Nero that then was in some garage now is a tourist trap - happy for them they make money but a foodie loss...
What is still original Palermo trattoria eating is Bersagliere near Ballaro.
Also enjoyed a lot Quatro Mani, in Kalsa.
Ai Cascinari which is a 'slowfood' place underwhelmed me twice, especially antipasti and secundi which are just not great cooking. Panelle and sfincione were nice.
Bye bye blues in Mondello still rules (high end) - some real great cooking here! Ricci pasta carbonara sounds weird and is great.
Enoteca Picone still wins in terms of wine, aperitivo.
Came across Scolapasta, which did Not do a good pasta a la norma...
Gagini cooks well, but tries a bit too much - slightly more simple could be better.
Branciforti cooks very well, but should up the service and be more strict against smoking. Good dishes really.
Checked out Antica Giarra twice over one year, since it looks so promising, and twice they said: 'we don't have a cook now'.... (???)
Tucked away in a corner of Piazza della Kalsa on Sunday morning great 'frittola' sold from a basket on a table on the street.
At via Ettore Ximenes great 'stigghiola' at the nice street bbq.
The guy selling 'pane ca meusa' at Vucceria still makes a great one, and is one of the few things still nice at that place that is quite gentrified now. Pane ca Meusa can be found all over town and often is good. Just like Arancini (but do not go antica san francesco or spinnato!).
Anyone more tips for simple trattorias for next time!?
by Susannah Chen | Spring asparagus is absolutely worthy of celebration, so we rounded up some of our best asparagus...