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Quick note on Laduree SoHo

sgordon | Feb 15, 201404:48 PM

Popped in for brunch today and figured I'd drop a little initial reaction, start a thread for others to weigh in.

First, the service was actually quite nice. Maybe a touch perfunctory but that's understandable as they were positively slammed. I'd read some early reactions on yelp from people who felt ignored by their waiters, etc, but we had nothing but pleasant service all the way through.

2. Savories, meh. Granted, it's brunch so one doesn't want to judge a kitchen by brunch alone, but I swear there wasn't a single flake of salt between our two omelettes. The snap peas and asparagus in the garden omelette were cooked to the point of softness (though shy of mushy, at least) and the filling of the "Concorde" had its own issues - the chicken was diced so tiny it might as well have been ground meat, so it lacked any toothsomeness. The tomatoes in it were nice and fresh, but with apparently no salt they were severely lacking in flavor. At a chef-driven resto it's not surprising there's no salt on the table, but at a place like this you'd think they would. I'm sure whoever's running the kitchen won't take offense.

We shared an order of Pommes Dauphine. Be warned: if you despise 2,4-dithiapentane as much as I do, they're redolent with it, and there's no warning of it on the menu. But aside from the unfortunate flavor of kerosene permeating them, they were well-seasoned. So they're not averse to salt. And the texture was perfect.

Pastries, on the other hand were great. And not tooth-achingly sweet, which was nice. We had a perfectly balanced Tart Citron, and something with rose and raspberries and cream on puff pastry I can't recall the name of.

I'll probably give them another chance on savories at dinner, and we'll see how the seasoning issues are. That said, it's certainly a lovely room and a great place to do tea and sweets if you've got a sweet tooth.

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