Just back from a month in Puerto Escondido, Oaxaca. What with eating out being a big focus every day, we hit a lot of the places in town. Overall a great eating town due to the confluence of super ingredients, the Oaxacan tradition and some super great restaurant atmosphere. We ate three times at Espaidin which has far and away the best view and atmosphere of anywhere else in town. Different nights we had sierra and dorado, both excellent and served with a couple of different salsas. Its all about the fish in Puerto and Pascale on the beach really treats it with respect. The restaurant is located a stone's throw from where the lanchas land at dawn laden with the nights catch and they go down to personally select what the special fish of the day will be. Chef is French and no disrespect intended but a lot of the Mexican cooks overcook the fish ... just the way it is. At Pascale they listen to how you want it cooked and so I had perfectly seared tuna and dorado cooked medium. Best of all for me is sierra which is a mackerel like fish. Also had whole huachinango or red snapper at Junto al Mar which has a great sunset view too.
Keeping with the view theme we ate a few times at Arco Iris hotel which has a lovely 2nd floor room overlooking the sea. They do a great job with traditional Oaxaca food like tlayudas and pozole. More than anything I enjoyed out of town trips and food in out of the way places. One day beside a remote waterfalls at La Reforma I was served a caldo de chacales by local women accompanied by hand made tortillas and a wonderful red salsa made with charred tomato and a very hot local chile. Chacales are crayfish and the caldo was super. Down the road from La Reforma at San Pedro Mixtepec we lunched at a simple comedor above the town square on caldo de pollo. In this type of place they just do soup right. Simple broth with a big old chicken leg in the middle plus coarsely chopped vegetables, a good hint of chile. Then they bring a plate with chopped onion, cilantro and jalapeno ... perfect along with more fresh tortillas.
Another day we sat on the beach at Playa Agua Blanca and watched as they hauled a bag of oysters out of tidal pool then pounded, breaded and grilled them up just right. Another beach called Roca Blanca about 30KM out of town there is a row of palapa restaurants. Usually they are almost empty except for weekends. My favourite spot is the very first one run by Jose Galvan and family. Jose is a spear fisherman and so his fish is the freshest best fish you can imagine. They know their business and so take only what they need for each day. Again sierra is the star for me prepared in many different ways. But I couldn't stop eating tostadas de camarones. The shrimp are so sweet, never frozen and come from nearby Laguna de Chacagua. Simple with chopped tomato, chile and lettuce, an order of three cost about $4 and I couldn't finish it all.
Lots more restaurants I haven't mentioned in Puerto, all in all a great eating town.